Caring for Betta Fish (Siamese Fighting Fish)

Before purchasing any animal, you should ALWAYS do research.
What always bothers me is the way people refer to having (and loving) any kind of fish. "Oh, its just a fish." Yes, although it is a fish, people are still entitled to love it. Despite popular belief, many fish are very personable. I have had several types of fish and all of them have had personality. For example, my mom's betta, Skittles, greets her every morning, but if my mother is away, he will ignore her for a day after she gets back. He also likes to "dance" in his bowl, while my mom dances to the radio.
A lot of people assume fish are easy to care for, and cheap. Caring for a betta is NOT cheap. A decent tank set-up at the beginning is around $50.00 - $70.00, as well as frequent purchases of conditioner and food.

Here is some important information about bettas:
- Bettas DO NOT live in puddles in their native habitats (common belief). Bettas actually live inside patty fields in Thailand. Although shallow, these are long and interconnect multiple times.
- Bettas are territorial
- Male bettas CAN NOT be kept together.
- Female and male bettas CAN NOT be kept together.
- Female bettas can be kept together in a 10 gallon or up tank, with at least five females (do not overstock the tank. Overstocking depends on tank size). Keeping female bettas together is called a Betta Sorority, and should only be attempted by people who have had experience with bettas. The bettas create a hierachy through fighting (which can last a few days on and off), but some females are too aggressive for sororities.
- Depending on the bettas personality, it may be kept with other fish, but these fish must not have long/colorful fins, as the betta will confuse it for one of its own. Bettas should only be kept with other fish in a tank of 10 gallons or more. Some examples of fish compatibile with bettas are: platies, guppies (not fancy), corydoras fish. Other aquatic animals compatible with bettas are snails, shrimps, and african dwarf frogs.
- Bettas are some of the hardiest fish you can own, but they will NOT survive everything. Do your best to provide a good life for your betta.
- Males (and occasionally females) create bubble nests that are used for breeding. A bubble nest is a sign that your betta is happy and healthy. During breeding, the male wraps a female pushing eggs out of her. He then fertilizes the eggs and carries the eggs into the bubbles (Which are on the surface of the water).
- Bettas breathe air through a special organ called the labrynith organ. They do need surface space above their tanks so the can breathe.

Habitat:
The minimum tank size for a betta is a controversial topic amongst betta keepers. Some recommend a mimimum of a 1 gallon tank, others recommend a 2.5 gallon tank. In my opinion, it depends on the side of the betta, but bigger is always better. Females are generally smaller than males, so I believe keeping a female is OK in a 1 gallon, and males should be kept in a 2.5 gallon tank, but BIGGER IS ALWAYS BETTER. Occasionally you may come across a betta who is more comfortable in a smaller tank. I have a betta, Spazz, who was uncomfortable in anything larger then 1.5 gallons. He was fatigued, ate little and never made bubble nests. I moved him into a 1.25 gallon tank, and now he is much happier!
There is a kind of betta called King Bettas, or Giant Bettas, which are bettas larger than the average betta. These bettas are usually labelled at the store. These bettas must be kept in a minimum of 5 gallons.
Most "betta kits" are NOT suitable for a betta. They are usually under 0.8 gallons, and are TOO small. There are a few betta kits that are suitable for bettas, but always check the tank size!
Bettas can be kept in:
- Glass tanks. These tanks are available at most (if not all) pet stores, and come in a variety of sizes. These are the most common type of habitat used. These are not too expensive. You can get glass tank kits which include filter, tank, lid, filter pads etc, which end up saving you money.
- Kritter Keepers. These are another common habitat for bettas. They come in a variety of sizes (I have seen them as large as 10 gallons). They are generally cheaper than glass tanks, and are lighter. They also come in a variety of colors for the lids.
- Plastic Containers/Storage Bins. These are also fairly cheap, and come in all different sizes (I have seen some HUGE ones). Only downside is many are not completely transparent, so it blurs the view of the fish. You can find these in most stores.
- Cookie Jars. A cheap, cute habitat for your betta. Surprisingly, I have seen some transparent cookie jars as large as 4 gallons.

Heating:
Contrary to popular belief, bettas are actually tropical fish, and therefore need a source of heat. Bettas need a temperature between 76* - 83*. A thermometer is needed to keep track of the temperatures (probe or alcohol thermometers are best - stick on thermometers are not accurate). There are two types of heaters available:
-Adjustable: These are the best type of heaters to get. They allow you to adjust the temperature of the tank, which is useful if your betta is sick and needs raised water temps.
- Pre-set: Although there a few good pre-set heaters, adjustable is better. Pre-set heaters are usually set to 78*, but do not heat the tank to that temperature. In most cases the water is set to 76* or under. You can occasionally find pre-set heaters that will set the temperature accurately, but not very often.

Filtration:
Although bettas do NOT need a filter, it is recommended. With a filter,
the tank can create a natural bacteria cycle. Bettas (and all fish)
release ammonia into the water. This ammonia is toxic, and is why a fish
owner must make frequent water changes. With the cycle, there is
bacteria which converts the ammonia into nitrites (which is also toxic),
which encourages more bacteria to be created which converts the
nitrites into nitrates, which are not toxic to fish (unless kept in
large amounts of nitrates). This cycle allows fewer water changes, and
less water needing to be changed at one time. For example, a 10 gallon
tank without the cycle should be changed once a week with a complete
100% water change. If that 10 gallon tank was cycled, you would only
need to change 25% of the water once a week. Not only does this save you
time and water, but also saves you money, because you are using less
water conditioner.
To cycle your tank you need an ammonia source. You can use your fish. Do
small frequent water changes, and test the water regularly until the
parameters are in the right range. Without your fish, you can use pure
ammonia, fish food, or a frozen shrimp (which releases ammonia as it
decays - it stinks though). The ammonia in the water will encourage the
beneficial bacteria to grow.
Bettas do not like a lot of current, so the filter must have a soft
outtake (where the water goes out) flow, or you will need to baffle the
filter (you can use aquarium sponge to cover the outtake with an elastic
band). Depending on the filter, the intake (where the water goes in)
could also be too strong, and may suck your betta's fragile fins into
the filter. You may need to baffle the intake the same way you would the
outtake, or you can use a nylon to cover the intake.

Feeding:
Bettas are carnivores and can survive on a staple diet of frozen or live
food (such as bloodworms or brine shrimp) or on betta pellets or betta
flakes. There are many brands of betta flakes and pellets. Make sure the
betta food has a high protein level. Follow the directions on the
package as to how much you should feed your betta.
You can feed freeze-dried bloodworms to your betta for a treat once or
twice a week. Freeze-dried bloodworms can cause bloating so feed only a
few at a time.
Bettas should be fasted one day a week to allow the betta to fully digest their food.


Testing Kit:
You should test your water occasionally to ensure that the water is at
the right parameters to keep your betta healthy. In a cycled tank, your
water parameters should be:
Ammonia: 0ppm
Nitrate: 0ppm
Nitrates: under 20 ppm
pH: 7.0 (bettas can tolerate 6 to 7.5)
Paper strip testing is not very accurate, the liquid testing kits are
ideal, and they last a LONG TIME. If you do not want to purchase your
own testing kit, many pet stores will test your water for you if you
bring a sample in.

Conditioning Water:
You should always use tap water in your tanks. Tap water contains
vitamins and minerals that are good for your fish. But your tap water
also contains chlorine, chloramine and other metals that are harmful to
your fish. You use water conditioner (purchased at the pet store) to
remove these substances from the water. Follow the instructions on the
conditioner when using it.


Plants and Decorations:
Bettas need at least one hiding spot. It can be purchased at the store,
or you can make one by using a terra cotta pot. You can break a hole
into the bottom of the terra cotta pot and lay it on its side. (I did
this for two of my male bettas, and they both LOVE it). Bettas also like
plants to explore and play amongst. They especially like big leaved
plants, because they like to sleep on the leaves.
You can use live or real plants in your tank, it is your choice. Live
plants may need special lighting, so keep that in mind. Live plants also
help the cycle in your tank.


Lighting:
Bettas live in the paddy fields, where they get a regular schedule of
day and night. Create the same schedule, but lighting the tank during
the day, and keeping the tank in the dark at night. Depending on whether
you use live plants or not, you may need special lighting.

Purchasing a Betta:
You can purchase bettas from a variety of places. You can buy your betta
from local pet stores & local fish stores. You may also be
able to buy your betta from a local breeder. Bettas from local breeders
are generally more expensive, but you are more likely given a variety
of tail types and colors. You can also purchases bettas online from
places like AquaBid. Purchasing bettas online is more expensive,
especially involving shipping (which is usually between $16.00 to
$32.00).

Tail Types:


If you have any questions, PM me or leave me a message!
If you think I've left anything out, please let me know!

Very nice! I would also like to add a little bit about Indian Almond Leaves I use them with my import Marble/Fancy Dragon Plakat...here's a link.

http://www.indianalmondleaves.com/bettafish.php

Also: If you get a larger tank and decide to house two males in that tank via a tank separator, I suggest a few things:

- Make sure the water level is about 2-3 inches lower than the partition...bettas will jump these to get to the other male...
- Make sure the partition isn't 100% clear. Seeing another male for too long will stress both males out and possibly kill them. If it is clear, be sure to have a lot of plants (silk or live, never plastic as it could tear their fins) so they can hide or not see each other all the time.
- If you make your own partition with a crochet board (plastic with squares on it to tie yarn), make sure your betta's jaws can't fit through. They can nip each other.

Decoration suggestion:

- As stated briefly, try to use either live or silk plants. Plastic plants can have sharp edges that can rip your betta's beautiful fins, allowing a chance for fin rot to set in. It can get nasty.

Tank cleaning:

I highly suggest 2.5 gallons for a single betta... for a tank that size, it should be cleaned at least once a week fully. That includes scrubbing everything down and pouring in fresh, clean, conditioned water. Never clean the tank with your betta still in the tank...it can stress him out and chemically burn him (chlorine/chloramines) if you don't condition the water you pour in first.

Also, try not to use a fish net...these can also tear fins and stress out the betta. If you MUST use a net, use a brine shrimp net. I prefer the scoop method with a cup.

- If your betta is getting fin rot or tore his fins, a good way to help him heal without harsh medicine is cleaning the tank 100% every day for a week, using 1 tsp aquarium salt (NOT TABLE SALT/SEA SALT) per gallon of water, along with an optional IAL. This should help them heal. Never use medications unless absolutely necessary.

EDIT: Please take out the Wal-Mart part of where you can buy your bettas..Wal-Mart is extremely cruel to their fish and they're usually on the verge of dying...there are many people petitioning Wal-Mart to take betta fish off their shelves. Some people have been successful with their letters and animal cruelty pictures...Some pictures are quite graphic. Some cups are brown with fish poo...some have dead, molding and decomposing fish...there was a fish at my Wal-Mart that had apparently been shaken to death with one of its eyes on the bottom of its cup. Kids even go through the cups and pour soda into them sometimes. If you want to learn or see more...check youtube.

Hi Kathryn,



You seem to know Bettas very well so maybe you can shed some light.



I had a beautiful Betta in my communal tank which I started just over 6 mths ago. He was a dark red colour and had the most stunning long wavy fins.



Unfortunately, Oscar died a couple of days ago and I can't understand why. I have another two smaller bettas (also male) in separate smaller tanks and they are thriving.



My tank has everything that it should like filter, air stone, thermometer, heater, uvb light, live plants, fake plants, rocks, log with holes to hide in and I do a 25-35% water change every week. I also check my water pH every 2 weeks and it sits between 7-7.5pH.



The platies have been breeding like crazy and I counted 45 baby fry on one occasion. Oscar loved to eat the fry and I noticed that he had small red "fibres" coming out of his poophole (couldn't think of a better word). He was a great guy and always very active. He enjoyed chasing the other fish and flared his gills at them to scare them. Anyway, the other day I noticed him lying on the gravel at the bottom and he showed no interest in eating or doing anything. The next morning he was stuck upside down in one of the plants dead. I was heartbroken cos he was a big beautiful fish and I really want to try find out what caused him to die.

Thank you for this amazing caresheet Kathryn. You will be given some LGF Points for this great contribution!!!!

Thanks Tushei! I always forget about Indian Almond Leaves, because my sister and I are allergic to almonds, so we can't use them.
And the information about the dividers is really appreciated. I will probably make a DIY divider thread. I've made several dividers and they are really good. I'll be adding a bit more to this later on. I was just too tired to keep going last night XD
I took the Wal-Mart bit out. Thanks for suggesting that! I've only been to one or two wal-marts that sell bettas, and they were pretty good, but I now know that that isn't the case the majority of the time.

Joneill - Was he acting strangely shortly before his death? How old approx. was he? Were his fins intact? If what I'm imagining of the fibres is, that sounds like normal poop to me.

Jolene - Thank you very much!

I have no idea how old he was but I had him for a little over 6 months. He was a big betta compared to others I have seen. His fins were intact and I couldn't see any cuts or scrapes anywhere on him. He was acting normal the day before he died except that he didnt want to eat and was lying on the bottom of the tank away from all the other fish. I don't know what killed him but the rest of my fish are fine.

That is really strange. I'm not sure why he died. Sometimes things like that happen. Fish are hard to diagnose and treat. I'm sorry you lost him.