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Both Not Eating Crickets

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Both Not Eating Crickets Empty Both Not Eating Crickets

Post by Immy Sat Feb 11, 2012 6:59 am

I have two leo's, one male (Rango) and one female (Beans). They both live in seperate tanks. Usually Rango is so greedy for crickets that he'll headbut the tub while I'm getting them out. He also LOVES waxworms, which we give him only about 2 every other day.

Beans is also fed on the same diet, although ever since we got her (two weeks ago) she hasn't been very optimistic and she's a picky eater. We haven't seen her eat for the past two weeks but we know that she has. She loves wax worms, too. She shed two days ago.

Now, neither of them are eating their crickets and they've taken about 3 waxworms each but then turned their noses up at having any more (VERY uncharecteristic). Although we don't feed them wax worms too much I'm worried that they may have decided that they prefer them and think they no longer need to eat crickets. The heating in the tanks are perfect and we have a wet box in there all the time, as well as spraying the tank now and again to add humidity.

While Beans has always been a picky eater (after being fed too often by her past owner) Rango has never been this picky. Has anyone ever been in this situation and have any advice? anyone?
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Post by Immy Sat Feb 11, 2012 7:02 am

Oh, and they both detest mealworms with a passion Mad
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Post by Mardy Sat Feb 11, 2012 8:12 am

You have to do the hard things...stop feeding them waxworms completely. The only way to get them off the addiction is to deprive them of it. This is one of the biggest problems with waxworms (aside from them being too fatty and unhealthy), leopard geckos can and often do get addicted to them and refuse anything else. Two waxworms every other day is a lot of waxworms, most people who use waxworms as treats only do maybe two a week.

So the sooner the better, stop feeding them waxworms, and start trying various other feeders. If they dislike mealworms, try superworms as they are larger and move faster. Also try dubia roaches, they are very healthy feeders and low fat. If they ever get addicted to dubia roaches, it's a good thing.

There are other feeder insects you can try, like silkworms, phoenix worms, etc.. Good luck thumbs up 2
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Post by Kermit Sat Feb 11, 2012 10:26 am

I agree that they are eating a lot of waxies. Fast them for a while like 4-5 days then try an alternate feeder. Also it could help if you could take a minute to fill out our care questionaire just so we can make sure there aren't any husbandry issues that could be causing them to go off food. http://www.leopardgeckoforum.com/t134-please-read-and-fill-out-with-your-health-questions . Lastly your female just shed, they eat their shed so she's likely full. Fasting them will give her a chance to void tha from. Her gi and be ready for food.
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Post by Immy Sun Feb 12, 2012 5:56 am

Care Questionaire:

About your leo:
- Sex: 1 male & 1 female
- Age & Weight: unknown age & perfect weight.
- Morph (if you know): albino tremper and original (technical name unknown)
- How long have you owned your leo: male: three month / female: two weeks
- Where was he/she obtained (Pet store, breeder, wild caught, etc.): Pet Stores
- Is your leo wild caught or captive bred: captive.

A) Health/History
- How often do you handle your leo: we handle both every day for at most 40 mins.
- Is your leo acting any different today? If so how: both of them are acting normal but neither are eating.
- Has he/she had any problems in the past, if so please describe.: the female has had some shedding problems.
B) Fecals
- Describe-Do they look any different than normal: Perfect
- When was the last time he/she went: regularly.
C) Problem
- Please briefly describe the problem/issue you are experiencing and how long it has been going on: both geckos (male and female) have stopped eating. They ate a few wax worms each but then snubbed the crickets which they both used to love. This has been going on for a week.

Housing:
A) Enclosure
- Size: 30 inch by 15 inch
- Type (ex. glass tank, screen enclosure, tub kept): wooden vivarium (wood sides and back and glass front)
- Type of substrate (sand, vinyl tiles, ceramic/stone tiles, etc.): calcium sand
- Hides (how many, location and type (hothide, humid hide, regular hide etc.): 1 normal hide (warm side), 1 humid hide (warm side).
B) Heating
- What is your main heat source (heat bulbs, under tank heat mat etc) **Please include the brand and size of your UTH if you use one**: Heat Mat
- What are your cage temps (hot side and cool side) Hot side: 25 degrees. Cold side: 20 degrees
- Method of regulating your heat source (thermostat, rheostat, light dimmer etc.): thermostat
- What are you using to measure your temps (probe thermometer, infrared lazer tempo gun, stick on temp gauge, etc) Thermometer
- Do you have any lights (describe type (red,blue, basking etc) and cycle duration) Normal dim lights.
C) Cage mates
- How many (males, females) Both leo's are kept seperately
- Describe health, or previous problems of cage mates: health is fine, female is gravid.

Describe Diet:
A) Typical diet
- What are you feeding: crickets every two days and two wax worms every other day
- How often are you feeding your gecko and how much per feeding?: crickets fed until full (about 6)
- How are you feeding (hand fed, tongs/tweezers, left in dish, ect): crickets left to run in vivarium and wax worms are fed with tongs
B) Supplements
- What calcium suppliment are you using (please include brand): exo-terra
- What multi vitimin are you using (please include brand): exo-terra
-How are you implimenting your suppliment program (how often do you dust with each suppliment, do you leave calcium in the tank 24/7 etc.): calcium left in the tank 24/7 and always dust the crickets with it.
- What are you gutloading your feeder insects with:
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Post by Kermit Sun Feb 12, 2012 7:49 am

Few things could be impacting their eating. The calci sand is bad. Sand in general is not recommended because it leads to impaction. Calci sand is worse because it encourages your leo to eat it and they can get impacted. Id switch the substrait to paper towels or tiles.

Next your temps are too low. You should have at a minimum 31*c for optimum digestion and regulation of their core temperature.

What do you mean by normal dim lights? Like a regular incandescent bulb that goes into a regular house lamp?

You need to gutload your feeders to make sure they're loaded with good food esp. The crickets as they'll eat their own waste. Don't want a leo eating bugs stuffed with poop. That's bad. Leave fresh veggies in the cricket keeper and toilet paper tube to absorb the Clap moisture crickets exhale so they don't get too humid or they'll die. Wax worms can't be gutloaded, they don't eat but you're not going to be offering them for at least a month to get them over their waxie addiction. Your leos can smell when feeders aren't right so to say, so you want to make them as appealing as possible so gutloading with fresh veggies will keep your crix happy and healthy.

You're going to want to keep a dish of plain calcium in the viv with the gravid female. Just like a soda cap or a little votif candle holder full will be fine. This way she can lap it as needed since she's producing eggs her calcium levels will get depleated. Dust 1-2x a week with the multi vit and calcium with D3.

So that's about it for now I think... make those changes and see how it goes. If you notice they start to rapidly drop weight you'll want to get a fecal examdone to rule out parasite/protozoa infestation.
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