Chinese Water Dragon Care Sheet. (Pretty Long)

Hello LGF,
A few members have asked if i could put together a Chinese Water Dragon Care sheet so thats what i did. I have copied some things that i have found in all my research before i obtained my 2 CWD's and some of it is my personal experience and thoughts on them as well. So i hope everything in this is helpful to all that read it and hope it helps you along your way if you are planning to Own a CWD of your own. I didnt get into mating of them at all as im not super informed in that area myself. If there is questions about anything that i may have missed or didnt cover please feel free to contact me about it and ill answer it as best i can.



Chinese Water Dragon Care Sheet
(Physignathus cocincinus)

Native Range:
Chinese Water Dragon lizards originate from Southeast Asian mainland (Thailand, Southern China, Vietnam, and Cambodia).
Chinese water dragons are large diurnal, arboreal lizards, living mainly in the branches of trees and bushes, however they have also been found in burrows in sandy places.
These lizards are also known to be semi-aquatic. Their long laterally flattened tail is well utilized when swimming.

Size:
Hatchlings are about 1 inch snout to vent, and 5 to 6 inches (13-15 cm) in total length; are often a brownish green dorsally (upper surface of the body) and a pale green to white ventrically (lower abdominal surface of the body), light coloured stripes (usually white or beige) run vertically across each side of the body, with brown and green banded tails, very large eyes and short snouts.
Adult males are approx. 3 feet (92 cm) total length; adult females are approx. 2 feet (61 cm) total length. The tail of these lizards, from my observations, appears to make up approximately 70% - 75% of the water dragons total length. The tail is laterally flattened, banded brown and green, and ends in a fine point. Dragons use their tails for balance and leverage when climbing, and can use them to whip would be attackers, predators, and, or keepers.
Adult water dragons are, of course, green with colours ranging from a dark forest green to a light mint green. The lower body of adult dragons is generally white or very light yellow. Vertical, slanted stripes run along the sides of the water dragon’s body. These stripes can range in colour from a pale green, mint green, to an aqua or turquoise colour. The throats of juvenile and adult water dragons can also be quite colorful, with throat colours ranging from a very pale yellow, to orange, to peach, and bright pink.
The head has a triangular shape, and on adult male dragons the head will become quite large and wide. Large, rounded, white scales run just below the mouth area and end in one or two larger pointed scales where the head and neck meet. The tongues of water dragons are similar in shape to our tongues, in that they are thick and wide, but their tongues end in a very small fork. The tongue has a sticky surface that helps them to catch and hold their prey. Their teeth are small and pointed- the better to eat an omnivorous diet- and can draw blood if a dragon were to bite their keeper (luckily most dragons are even tempered and rarely bite their keepers). A dark stripe runs from the lower corner of the eye and extends out toward the ear.
A very small (1-2mm) round shiny spot located at the top of the head, between their eyes, is known as the parietal eye or the third eye. The parietal eye is thought to help water dragons, as well as a number of other reptiles, sense differences in light. It is believed that they use their third eye to help them thermo regulate. For example, it may help them to decide upon a good basking spot, or it may help them sense that light levels are decreasing and that they had better find shelter for the night.
Water dragons have well developed nuchal crests, but they are often higher, and have longer spikes on male dragons. Males also have prominent mid-sagittal crests.
Water dragons have well developed legs. The front legs are generally much more slender than the back legs. The front legs, and strong 5 toed front claws, are used to climb and grasp branches. The muscular back legs are used to aid in climbing and swimming, as well as jumping or leaping from object to object! Water dragons can run bipedally, that is on their hind legs, and this is quite a sight to see, indeed! Their hind feet are 5 toed as well, with the middle toe being the longest toe. Their claws are long and thick and end in sharp needle like points.
A recent article stated that water dragons are able to change their colours. While that is true to some extent, this article makes water dragons seem almost chameleon like in that ability, and this just isn't so. I have found that a warm, happy and healthy water dragon will most often be a nice bright shade of green, and this green will change shades only slightly if the dragon is content. A cold, sick, stressed, or frightened dragon will have a greater colour range from almost black to pale green. So if your dragon is in one of the latter colour ranges most of the times please take note of it because it is likely to be either cold, ill, or badly stressed.

Handling:
Chinese Water Dragons are fairly docile Reptiles and can be handled with causing little to no stress to the animal. They have very unique personalities. When it comes to the question “Do water Dragons Bite?” so far from my experiences neither of mine has tried to bite me but with any other animal it can happen and may happen from time to time. They will on occasion also “Tail Whip”. Most people that own older larger CWD’s allow them “free roam” time to roam about the rooms they are kept in or in the living room or where have you. I do not do this yet with mine as they are still Juveniles and are very fast little buggers and are phenomenal jumpers. I do get them out from time to time and let them climb on me for a little bit and this is just to keep them docile and comfortable with me handling them. I will warn though that they can be extremely fast and like to jump so use caution when handling your CWD’s.

Caging:
Ok this is mostly up to the owner on how they want to house there CWD’s and what they want to house them in but I will give you my personal thoughts on what they should be housed in and why. For 1 Juvenile CWD I would recommend nothing smaller then a 20 gal TALL tank. They are arboreal reptiles meaning they love to climb and like to be high up in the “trees” so they need a much higher enclosure then they do a longer one. I would recommend an all glass Vivarium with a lockable screen top since they need high humidity. As the CWD’s get older and grow larger follow the rule of thumb that your tank needs to be 2x there length in both height and length. So for instance if your CWD is 2 feet in length then your Vivarium should be at least 4 feet tall by 4 feet long. So housing can become rather expensive as they grow older. You could build their larger vivarium out of mostly wood if you plan on using a solid substrate. I currently house my 2 juvenile CWD’s in a 55gal aquarium. They are both about 10” long from tip of snout to tip of tail. CWD’s are semi-aquatic reptiles so you want to have some sort of water in there Vivarium that they can fit at least ½ - ¾ of their body in to soak if they so choose to. My current setup has a water substrate. They entire tank is filled with about 6” of water with different rocks driftwood and other forms of land masses throughout the vivarium for them to sit on or climb on. I also have numerous different fake plants and vines throughout for them to climb on and be happy. I plan to always have a large portion of my vivarium to be water as the substrate even in there larger one when they get older so I will be buying or making an all glass vivarium that will fit the proper measurements. One last tip and word of advice if you are planning on keeping one or more CWD’s think about getting or making there vivarium for their full adult size either before bringing them home or within a few months of getting them.

Décor:
This again is fully up to you to use whatever décor or “furniture” you want but bearing a few things in mind. The basic items you should have in any CWD vivarium should include but aren’t limited to vines, fake plants, driftwood, and other types of land masses for them to sit on and also to climb on and feel safe like they are up in a tree.
There are many benefits when live plants are included in an enclosure. The enclosure is pleasant to look at, the water dragons will have more hiding places, and humidity will be easier to maintain when live plants are included as they will need to be watered and misted. The only true downside to having soil and live plants in the enclosure is that crickets that are not eaten quickly tend to lay eggs in the soil.
Plants should be repotted in a safe soil mix that does not contain any fertilizers before being used in the dragon’s vivarium. It would also be a good idea to rinse the plant a few times in the shower to rinse off any powdered pesticides that could have been sprayed on the plants leaves to kill pests. Pesticides are toxic to reptiles. I generally keep new plants out of the dragon’s enclosure for a week or two after purchase and clean and shower the plant a few times before adding it into the dragon’s cage. Better to be safe than sorry!
Pothos, and Dracenae plants, Philodendrons, Spider plants, and Epiphytes such as Staghorn ferns, and certain bromolaids are known to be safe for use with water dragons. Unfortunately not all plants are safe for use with reptiles. You can find a listing of Toxic plant links at:
http://www.triciaswaterdragon.com/mischerp.htm#toxic

Substrate:
You can use a combination of soil and orchid bark but the dragon may accidentally ingest some of this when eating its food items on it, or you can use AstroTurf (but melt/bind the edges so the little pieces of green fiber doesn't fray as this may be ingested too!)With ingestion of substrate you run the risk of your dragon’s digestive track getting impacted, this could be very serious!
Substrates that I've heard other people mention with few problems resulting in their use are: Sterile soil and playground sand mixture; sterile soil and cypress mulch, or orchid bark mixture; Astroturf with bound or melted edges; bed sheets; newspaper, or butcher paper; paper towels; ceramic tiles, and alfalfa pellets.
I generally prefer to suggest that people use sterile top soil or a soil that has no additives or at most only some sphagnum moss added to it. This has proved to be a generally safe medium and it will also help keep the cage humidity in the proper range. If the soil is not marked "sterile" it would be wise to bake the soil at 300 F for 30 minutes or so in order to kill off some of the bacteria, fungus and or little bugs that could be in the soil before using it in the dragon’s cage. Some soil mixes have additives such as vermiculite (the shiny stuff) and or perlite (the tiny white Styrofoam like balls) that are indigestible but extremely attractive to curious water dragons. Please don't use soils with these additives. Also don't use soils that have added fertilizers. Fertilizers could be extremely toxic to your dragon and I'm sure you'd hate for anything to happen to your dragon because you used a soil with fertilizers added to it.
Substrates that have been known to cause problems are: Commercial brands sold in pet stores such as bark, shavings and other products made with moss- All of these commercial products are easy for the dragon to accidentally ingest, and have been known to cause impaction in several reptiles and amphibians. Whatever you use as substrate don't use cedar or pine as they emit fumes and resins which are toxic to herps!

Food:
Dragons at different stages of maturity get fed differently. A hatchling or juvenile needs to be fed daily; an adult- gets fed about every 2 to 3 days, although many people like me do feed their adult dragons on a daily basis. Feed smaller portions if you would like to feed an adult dragon on a daily basis to prevent them from becoming overweight.
However, whatever sizes the dragon is disregard this feeding schedule if the dragon is skinny as you need to get some weight on this little guy!
If your dragon is underweight or recovering from an illness (and interested in eating) feed every day, offering food 2 or three times a day. Your dragon may only eat a bit in one sitting but be hungry later, and if you don't offer more food your dragon will take longer to get back in shape!
Chinese Water Dragons will eat just about any kind of feeder insect: Crickets, mealworms (normal size, jumbo and super), waxworms, and earthworms, grasshoppers, butterworms, locusts, and blaptica dubia roaches, some people try small feeder fish like goldfish, and you may also want to offer a little bit of finely shredded veggies and fruit ( if your dragon will eat veggies this should make up about 10% to 15% of their diet) ( if you're going to try feeding them veggies and fruit, look for Melissa Kaplan's "ig salad diet" in her Iguana Care FAQ you can find the FAQ at:http://www.anapsid.org, you may also be interested in viewing this page in order to select fruit and veggies with a good calcium to phosphorous ratio.
Adult dragons should be offered all of the above plus King mealworms (Zophobas). Supervise these feedings though, these worms bite back, some people squash their heads before feeding them to their lizards!), pinkies (newborn hairless mice) and Fuzzies (slightly older baby mice, just starting to get hair). I feed my 2 CWD’s Dubia roaches, mealworms, on occasion superworms. When they are older they will eat pinky mice if you so choose to try and feed them one. Just like any other reptile they might take better to one type of feeder more then another so it’s best to try a few different ones and go from there. There is a little bit of a debate whether or not CWD's are Carnivorous, insectivorous, or omnivorous. In a sense they are all 3 but everyone has there own opinion on this matter.
This little piece is from a site that i found discussing this matter - Discussion of whether water dragons are Insectivores, Carnivores or Omnivores: It's very important to feed our dragons some whole prey items. They do eat whole prey food items in the wild- other lizards, perhaps baby birds and very likely rodents of one kind or another, as well as insects. Pinkies, fuzzies, rat pups, and feeder fish are all whole prey items. They contain bones ... bones contain calcium.

There is no way that we can provide our dragons in captivity anything that comes close to what they have in nature as far as access to sunlight and their diet goes. We try very hard ... but we still don't offer enough variety, nor are most of the foods that we offer very well balanced as far as calcium to phosphorus ratio's go.

Therefore it's very important for us to offer as wide a range of diet items as we possibly can and that does include offering pinkies (they aren't that high in calcium ... fuzzies and rat pups are much better!), fuzzies and rat pups as well as whole fish on occasion.

If we are only feeding our dragons one or two food items ... such as crickets and mealworms (pretty much the easiest food items for all of us to get, and they don't gross us out too badly) we are not caring for our dragons properly. There is no way they could get all the nutrients they need from a diet that contains such a small variety ... that would be like us eating the same food day in and day out for months on end ... eventually we would probably get sick or something right?

On the opposite side of the scale, I know there are some people that mainly feed their dragons rodents and rarely offer other food items. This isn't good either. Too much protein can cause damage to internal organs. (Fatty liver, liver disease, cataracts).

Everything must balance out if we want our dragons to be healthy.

Correspondent one said: "I believe that Water Dragons are classified as omnivores which means that they eat both animal and vegetable substances. Although they might eat a large amount of insects during the course of an average day, this would be because of the availability and not their preference or nutritional requirements. Eating lots of insects does not make them insectivores. "

Correspondent two said: "May I suggest you read "Anoles, Basilisks, and Water Dragons," by Bartlett and Bartlett, Barron's. I can direct you to other resource material as well. WDs are primarily insectivores, not omnivores."

I stepped into the discussion at this point and said: "I have that book and if you look on page 74 ... the second paragraph on the right of that page ... it definitely says that they eat mice ... the left side of the page talks about the two smaller species of the Basilisks family and states that they (the small Basilisks) are predominately insectivorous."

This is also the only water dragon book that even mildly suggests in one paragraph (earlier on in the book) that feeding rodents might be unnatural ... no other water dragon book states anything like that, not that I have seen."

" Philippe de Vosjoli's book "The General care and Maintenance of Green water dragons, Sailfin Lizards and Basilisks" states on page 11 that water dragons are carnivores "but will also eat a significant amount of plant matter". This is the book that I would tend to follow for overall basic info."

"Coborns book "Water dragons, Sailfins, and Basilisks" states on page 5 "It feeds on a variety of invertebrates, small frogs, lizards, and nestling birds. Only occasionally will it show herbivorous tendencies." He also states on page 39 " Water dragons, Sailfin lizards, and Basilisks range from being strictly carnivorous to partially herbivorous (omnivorous)." "

"There are three books about water dragons ... I cant find a statement clearly saying they are insectivores in any of them. In fact each book tends to lean more towards calling them carnivores or omnivores. I personally tend to think of them as omnivores myself and state that on my own page."

Correspondent one said: "Personally, I would call them opportunists. When it comes to food items they will pretty much eat anything offered to them, especially if it's moving. Mice, rats, fish, large night crawlers, etc." That is just a little bit of it. If you would like to read the whole thing go to http://www.triciaswaterdragon.com/wholeprey.htm

Special note: I found this little tidbit during some of my research while making this care sheet and thought it interesting and good to know -
WHOLE PREY food items are generally high in calcium and protein, and due to the calcium content should be included as part of the diet. Mader states in his Reptile Medicine and Surgery “Carnivorous lizards should be fed pre-killed whole prey. Rodents are preferable to chicks, and chicks are preferable to fish." he also goes to state " If mice, rats, rodents, rabbits and chicks make up the bulk of the diet, vitamin and mineral supplementation should not be necessary. It should be noted that newborn pinkie mice have less total calcium than do adult mice, and calcium should be supplemented if these are used." A selection of whole prey food items would range from pinkie, fuzzie and adult mice, rat pups, some people have offered gerbil fuzzies?, young chicks (Mader himself used to feed his dragons chicks), and feeder fish such as minnows. Some people also offer small lizards such as anoles to their dragons as a food source.
For more information about whole prey food items and why they are necessary for the general health and wellbeing of our water dragons please see Diet- You need to feed whole prey food items!
Most people feed these mice and other whole prey food items dead to their dragons. It's much more humane. Besides if you are buying them live, then they must be eaten within 24 hours or else they will die anyway, plus when you buy frozen you can buy in bulk! (Thaw before feeding to your dragon! ) If you have a large adult dragon you may even feed it adult mice or even new born rat pups. Please see Why you should NOT feed live Rodent prey to your reptiles: for more on the dangers of feeding live prey.

Humidity & Water:
Humidity should be about 80%, even with a water container in the cage this can be difficult to maintain. You should get a gauge that measures the humidity. Try to mist the enclosure twice a day. If you are really having problems keeping the humidity above 50% or higher try covering part of the top of the enclosure if it has a screen cover- you could put a piece of Plexiglas or even saran wrap or foil over part of the opening- this should help a bit- but, by all means never cover the whole top of the enclosure there must always be air circulating in the cage!
Some people feel that maintaining a humid environment is not necessary. I do not feel this way. Water dragons are from a tropical humid climate, and being kept in the harsh warm dry conditions of captivity can be harmful to your dragon’s health.
Iguana's also come from tropical humid areas and it has been found that if they are kept in captivity in a too dry enclosure they will more easily become dehydrated. Once an iguana becomes dehydrated the kidneys start to become affected. Many iguana's die every year from kidney failure. Some of these deaths are the result of animal protein in their diet, and some of these deaths are caused by chronic dehydration.
While iguana's and water dragons come from different areas of the world I feel that their habitat and living environment are very similar. Please mist your cages once or twice a day, and make every effort to maintain a proper humidity level for your dragon’s sake- his life span could be affected as a result of low humidity levels.
Water dragons love water, (well not all of them, but most do!) you should provide a fairly large area of water by either using a large plastic container (kitty litter pan) or make a nice water area using an aquarium or something with a water filter and waterfall for example. It can be as simple or as complex as you like. Whatever you use you need a container that is large enough for the dragon to enter and exit easily, and it must be filled with enough water that he can immerse up to 50% of his body height. You should be able to remove the water container easily for cleaning and disinfecting, as well as refreshing the water supply. The water container should be changed daily. You will probably find that your dragon goes to the washroom in the water. This is a good thing as it means the rest of the cage stays cleaner longer! The water doesn't have to be heated, room temp is good enough. You might want to use a filter in the water though to keep it cleaner longer.
When changing the water in the container please be sure to clean the dish with soap and water, rinse well, then disinfect the container with a 5-10% bleach solution, rinse the dish thoroughly afterwards before replacing the water container in the dragons enclosure. * soap and bleach may produce toxic fumes when used together- so please use them separately and rinse the container well between use of the soap or bleach solution.* Other disinfecting solutions may be used rather than bleach if you prefer- a novosolin or quatracide solution will provide adequate disinfection as well.

Heating & Lighting:
Day time temperatures should be between 84 and 88 F (28.9 C - 31.1 C), night time temperatures should be between 75 and 80 F (23.9 C - 26.7 C).
It's a good idea to have at least two thermometers in the cage. One should be on the cool side, and one thermometer should be placed on the warm side of the enclosure. Improper temperature ranges can result in your dragon becoming ill with a respiratory infection or make him more susceptible to other common ailments due to weakening of the immune system and inadequate digestion of nutrients due to slower metabolism when kept at too cool a temperature.
You'll have to play with different light wattages, or put your heat sources on a thermostat or dimmer switch to get the temps just right. I can't tell you exactly what wattage of bulb to use in your water dragons enclosure because this will depend upon the temperature of the room that the water dragon is housed in. If the room is generally cool you will need a higher wattage of basking light, if the room is kept fairly warm you will probably get away with using low wattage basking bulbs to heat the cage. Your lights should be on a timer so that your dragon will get a proper photo period. My lights come at 8 am and go off at 8 pm.
Many keepers have problems regulating the temperature of their enclosures in the summer and in the winter. If the cage is too hot in the summer try using basking lights with lower wattages. If the cage is too cool in the winter increase the wattage of your bulbs, and possibly put some insulation on the outside walls of the enclosure to keep the heat in.
You will also need one or two basking lamps. This can be any incandescent light, either a specialized basking lamp or a regular bulb. You may have to buy different wattage to provide the right amount of heat. I.e. anywhere from 50 watt to 150 watt bulbs. These lights get hot so make sure that your dragon can't get near them! Another good heat source might be a Zoomed, or Pearlco ceramic bulb (Ceramic Heat Emitter or CHE). These come in different wattages, and get extremely hot! Make sure your dragon can't touch it at all! It will sear flesh!!! If you get one of these definitely put it on a thermostat or dimmer. Ceramic heaters are a great way to provide heat at night since they don't produce light. If you use one of these ceramic heat emitters and you are afraid that your lizard might at some point come in contact with the bulb you should try to build a protective wire cage around the bulb so that the lizard can never actually touch the CHE.
Another good source of heat at night would be a nocturnal bulb. There are many commercial brands available in pet stores.
Do not get a hot rock! Many lizards, and snakes have been badly burnt by them! Hot rocks can crack, short, smoke and can develop hot spots over time that can burn your lizard. Some people try to get around these short falls by wrapping the rock in a cloth material or burying the rock in the substrate- but then how can you check to see if the rock really is developing hot spots or it has cracked? Hot rocks are also not good when in contact with moist substrates or moist humid environments- this is when they might short out and possibly electrocute your lizard. Many house fires have been traced back to the use of hot rocks in a reptile’s cage. For all of these reasons I suggest that if you have already purchased a hot rock that you cut the cord off and use it only as cage decor- for your own and your lizard’s safety.
You should also have good ventilation in the cage, and the temperature should be on a gradient i.e. top of cage warmer or cooler, or have a warm side and a cooler side so the dragon can thermo-regulate. Typically the basking area is going to be the warmest but the dragon will need a cooler place in case it gets too hot! You should have a couple of thermometers in the cage to measure the temps in different areas!
We know that natural unfiltered sunlight is the very best form of lighting to provide for water dragons as well as most other herps, unfortunately many people who own water dragons are unable to provide natural sunlight at all (due to busy lifestyles or because they live in apartments and do not have the ability to provide adequate access to outdoor facilities for their dragons) so, If you are able to provide natural unfiltered sunlight for your water dragons by all means do so, but please supervise your water dragon while it is sunning itself in order to prevent either escapes or overheating (to prevent overheating in the sun please provide your dragon with a shady area to go to in case it gets too hot, and never put a dragon in a glass tank in direct sunlight either as this could cause severe overheating and death! ).
You will definitely need to provide UVB in the form of fluorescent lighting. Incandescent bulbs do not produce UVB rays, they usually only provide UVA lighting. The dragon needs UVB to produce vitamin D3 in order to absorb the calcium in the diet, without this lighting the dragon will get very little calcium from the food and supplements that you are giving it and will very likely develop Calcium Deficiency in herbivore and omnivorous reptiles or MBD (metabolic bone disease) which is basically a calcium deficiency, but can also be caused by too much vitamin D3 supplementation as well (please see Kidney failure/metabolic bone disease/ vitamin D supplements in reptiles and amphibians for more information on calcium deficiency caused by over supplementation of vitamin D3).
If your dragon gets calcium deficiency it may first exhibit symptoms such as shaking trembling limbs and body, rubbery pliable lower jaw, swollen limbs, which will progress to inability to move legs i.e. drags itself around ... and death! The first sign may also be swollen bumps on limbs which could be a sign of a broken limb - a sign of weak bone structure. Most of the above symptoms are generally reversible if caught early. The vet will probably get you to give the dragon injections of calcium and get you to give your dragon oral liquid calcium supplements at home both of which usually begins to reverses the symptoms in about two weeks. However if you provide UVB fluorescent lighting, and supplement the dragons diet you will probably never have to go through this!
So again the first thing you need is a UVB light source that the dragon can bask under. The light should be set up so that the dragon is not more than 10 inches away from the light source when basking, otherwise the effects of the UVB light will decrease the further away the dragon is from it. The tube should also be set up so that there is no glass or plastic between the light and the lizard as this filters out UVB rays. If you have a screen lid between your dragons UVB tube and the dragon please try to use large holed screen as screen with very tight mesh can block out up to 30% of the UVB rays, glass and plastic between the light and dragon block out 80 to 90% of the UVB rays. Fluorescent lights do not produce much heat so there is little fear of your dragon burning himself on it, but I wouldn't count this as one of your heat sources. Try Zoo med’s reptisun, iguana 5.0, or a vitalight. UVB fluorescent tubes only produce UVB for approximately 6 months- they will have to be replaced twice a year as a result even though the tubes themselves will still produce light they will no longer be outputting much if any UVB after a 6 month time period.
UVB rays are produced in the 290 to 320 nm (nanometer) range. The average florescent tube used for lighting in a house or office of even for plant growth does NOT produce rays in this range. They produced light at higher ranges and therefore only produce UVA. When purchasing a florescent light please make sure that it states somewhere on the package that it produces light in the 290 to 320 nm range.
Remember- round or incandescent bulbs do not produced UVB- they produce UVA. Many incandescent basking bulbs state on the package that they are full spectrum but this only means that they produce "light" in the full spectrum of colours ... not the actual full spectrum of light rays. Don't be fooled by marketing promo on packages- check the labels and make sure you really are getting something that produces UVB. Having said this please note that there is a new form of UVB producing light that is in bulb form it's called a UV heat light.

I think that pretty well covers the Chinese water dragon. I hope this was insightful and Helpful.

Thank you so much! I really appreciate you making it!
Holy smokes, you included a LOT of info in it, that is so great!
They need a LOT of space, wow!
I'm probably gonna have to wait a while to get one lol!

thankyouuuuu!