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Buying A Leo

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Buying A Leo Empty Buying A Leo

Post by jessmonster Sun May 29, 2011 11:59 pm

Hi there!
I'm new to this forum and reptiles as a whole but I'm considering buying a leopard gecko and I've done my research but i want to know how other people find them. Are they easy to look after or should i just leave it?
Many thanks
Jess x
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Post by samsleopardgeckos Mon May 30, 2011 12:40 am

Hi Jess,
Welcome to the forum, hope you enjoy your time here.
As long as you have researched everything and get them everything they need they are easy to look after. Just make sure you get them from somewhere that knows what they are doing and where all the animals look nice and healthy ie bright eyes & nice fat tail.
Hope this helps Smile
Sam x
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Post by gothicgurrrl Mon May 30, 2011 5:26 am

Heyy Smile
Welcome to the forum Very Happy
Once you know what you are doing and how to care for them.. and you have all your tank set-up perfectly.. they are quite easy to care for IMO. Very Happy
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Post by Kermit Mon May 30, 2011 8:18 am

Leos are likely the easiest herps to look after as long as you start with a healthy animal. I would suggest starting with one at least 4 months old to a year (a juvie or subdult) as they are a lot less fragile than hatchlings or young juvies (under 4 months old). Please read the housing section sticky about proper housing as it will give you the best ideas on how to set up your viv and also what to look out for when considering store bought leos, if they can't even get viv husbandry right what's to say they aren't screwing other things up too. Absolutely avoid any leos that have been housed on sand or other loose substrait as they could have the starts of a bad impaction issue. Always try to buy from a breeder. It may be more expensive but you'll spend twice that trying to fix a ill kept potentially sick leo.

Welcome to the forum and thank you for doing your research before invsting in a pet. Feel free to ask anything you please, the only stupid question is the question not asked. Smile take a second and review the forum's rules when you get a chance thumbs up 2
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Post by smsararas2 Mon May 30, 2011 11:10 am

Hi, I agree with all my fellow forum members above, just wanted to say hello and of course as Kel said, ask all the question you have!
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Post by jessmonster Mon May 30, 2011 9:04 pm

Thanks a lot. What do you guys do when you're going on holiday?
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Post by Kermit Tue May 31, 2011 12:47 am

Depends on how long your gone. Leave an extra dish of food and water. Have a friend stop by. They can go up to around 4-5 days without food but need water every day.
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Post by Jordan Tue May 31, 2011 2:39 am

Kermit wrote:They can go up to around 4-5 days without food but need water every day.

Strictly speaking, gecko's can go months without food and weeks without water.
So your gecko will be fine when you get back.

Obviously to avoid any weight loss though, it would be wise to give the extra food and water dish. You'll likely have a hungry gecko when you get back too.
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Post by jessmonster Tue May 31, 2011 2:48 am

what's the maximum amount of time you can leave it for without food or water? So i should just leave it with extra food and get a friend to give it fresh water every day? Would that be ok. How long can it go without food?
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Post by Jordan Tue May 31, 2011 3:04 am

I've got a female at the moment who is refusing to eat due to ovulation, and she hasn't eaten in about a month, and has lost a total of 2 grams, no biggy. But in the wild they can go sometimes go 3 months or so without food. So longer than that...

But 2 big bowls of food, and someone to provdie cleanw ater everyday would be perfect for it.
I don't want to condone leaving gecko's without food for months laughing
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Post by jessmonster Tue May 31, 2011 3:17 am

Thanks but how can you put crickets in a bowl? And what about water.
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Post by jessmonster Tue May 31, 2011 3:18 am

what else do they eat apart from insects? Insects can get out of bowls, can't they?
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Post by jessmonster Tue May 31, 2011 3:19 am

wait! How do you look at your mail???
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Post by gothicgurrrl Tue May 31, 2011 3:23 am

Crickets will jump out of the bowls.. but you just put some in the tank for your leopard gecko to eat and also add some carrot soo that the crickets will eat it and not bother your leopard gecko. It will eat the crickets if it's hungry.. check back in about 30 mins and remove any that it hasn't eaten.

Leopard gecko are insectivores.. they only eat insects. There are loads of different insects that they are eat.. morioworms/superworms, mealworms, waxworms (as a treat), silkworms, crickets, locust, dubai roaches... Very Happy

There are special dishes that you can get with a curved top soo that the mealworms and morioworms cannot climb out.
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Post by Jordan Tue May 31, 2011 3:27 am

I meant mealworms to be honest.
Mealworms are normally fed in a bowl, and a lot easier than crickets.

By the way, you can always use the edit button on your posts, if you missed out any questions. Smile
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Post by jessmonster Tue May 31, 2011 3:35 am

oh right ok.
So can i give it it's food just before i go to bed or should i make sure that i'm able to take out remaining food in 30 mins?
Do i have to put in a calcium dish or is it ok just to put powder on all it's food? What's the best food i could give it that's easy to get a hold of?
and thanks for the tip Jordan.
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Post by gothicgurrrl Tue May 31, 2011 3:55 am

Well some people do leave the crickets in the tank.. but because they can annoy your gecko and stress it out a little.. it is best to take out the ones that it doesn't eat.

You can feed the gecko can hour for you go to bed.. just put them in the tank and leave a bit of carrot in there for the crickets to eat.. and check back to see if they have been eaten.

You need to dust your crickets with the powder you can buy called live food dusting powder or something like that. I use komodo insect dusting powder. it's about £3 a tub and lasts for ages.

Then I leave a little bottle cap filled with pure calcium powder in the tank. I use exoterra calcium for that.. and its £1.99

If you use a powder called Nutrobol.. you can just dust the live foods and don't need to leave any in the tank.. but Nutrobol can be abit expensive.

I personally think mealworms and morioworms are the best food.. because they are easy to keep, they don't make sounds and annoy me while im trying to sleep like crickets do, crickets smell Very Happy The mealworms/morioworms are easy to gut load with food and they can be kept in little tubs.

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Post by jessmonster Tue May 31, 2011 4:01 am

Cool but aren't the electricity bills quite expensive??


Last edited by jessmonster on Tue May 31, 2011 9:04 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post by gothicgurrrl Tue May 31, 2011 4:03 am

I don't know much about the electricity bills because my mom pays them :P
But i don't think it's expensive to run a heat mat for one tank.
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Post by smsararas2 Tue May 31, 2011 4:09 am

A heat mat for one tank will not make a difference on your hydro bill. I am running four heat mats and 6 strings of heat cable and there ha been a very minimal change so one heat mat should not make a difference.
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Post by Karagain Tue May 31, 2011 5:03 am

Hey welcome Smile When I go on holiday, I leave my leopards and cresties at my local reptile shop to be looked after... Kinda like a kennels for reptiles Smile
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Post by jessmonster Tue May 31, 2011 6:44 am

What about lighting?
I heard it's good to have one?
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Post by Jordan Tue May 31, 2011 6:56 am

nope, no lighting is needed for leo's.

only if you have em in a room with no windows or lights.
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Post by jessmonster Tue May 31, 2011 9:06 am

oh thank goodness!
So no lights? Are you sure? No heat lamps? I've heard they're good.


Last edited by jessmonster on Tue May 31, 2011 8:45 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post by Jordan Tue May 31, 2011 10:26 am

Nope, no heatlamps are needed, you should be able to get the right temperature's with a heat mat.
No UV lights, no basking lights, no heat lamps, nothing.
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