my new leo =(

i bought my first leo 6 months ago she is fully grown and shes healthy and active loves to eat... i just recently received a new young leo from a friend who couldnt take care if him any more. i housed them first together and i saw no problems. no sign of aggression nothing. two days later he came out of his whole and was limping? first thought was that she bit him =( .took him out took a look at him but i saw no signs of bruising. i took out out my first leo's cage and set it up for him to heal. i didnt touch him or pick him up for two weeks i placed water food and misted him every day. today i picked him up and he hissed and bit me. i didnt mind it but he looked normal to me so placed him down and he tried to run to his cave and he did one then two steps and his hind legs gave out and he started to drag his body, back legs being dragged then hes front legs stopped moving and his tail started to do all these crazy jumping motions like if it was cut off? since the first day i had him i thought something was wrong he didnt walk like my leo does and he has a small hump at his hind legs.. ive been watching him for a hour and he walks horribly. hes eating his food but he just drags himself like a lazy alligator.. idk whats wrong i dont think he would make it very long... any one knows what might be wrong?

Can you please fill out the health questionnaire? It will help us in helping you.

http://www.leopardgeckoforum.com/t134-please-read-and-fill-out-with-your-health-questions

I'm feeling like this may have something to do with MBD. But the health questionnaire will help figure it out.

About your leo:
- Sex
male
- Age & Weight
5 1/2 inches long dont know the age or weight he looks health nice fat tail
- Morph (if you know)
normal
- How long have you owned your leo
1 1/2 months
- Where was he/she obtained (Pet store, breeder, wild caught, etc.)
a small pet shop
- Is your leo wild caught or captive bred
dont kno

A) Health/History
- How often do you handle your leo
just when i first got him once or twice a day for a week
- Is your leo acting any different today? If so how
agressive, biting, hissing
- Has he/she had any problems in the past, if so please describe.
B) Fecals
- Describe-Do they look any different than normal
looks normal like my other leo
- When was the last time he/she went
two days ago
C) Problem
- Please briefly describe the problem/issue you are experiencing and how long it has been going on
back legs being dragged then hes front legs stopped moving and his tail started to do all these crazy jumping motions like if it was cut off? drags his body insted of being lifted of the floor, since when i first saw him limp 2 weeks ago

Housing:
A) Enclosure
- Size
ten gl tank
- Type (ex. glass tank, screen enclosure, tub kept)
glass
- Type of substrate (sand, vinyl tiles, ceramic/stone tiles, etc.)
its ont those green mats for the glass tanks
- Hides (how many, location and type (hothide, humid hide, regular hide etc.)
1 coconut shell
B) Heating
- What is your main heat source (heat bulbs, under tank heat mat etc) **Please include the brand and size of your UTH if you use one**
a blue balb and a under tank heat mat
- What are your cage temps (hot side and cool side)
ranges i try to keep it at 75-80
- Method of regulating your heat source (thermostat, rheostat, light dimmer etc.)
thermostat
- What are you using to measure your temps (probe thermometer, infrared lazer tempo gun, stick on temp gauge, etc)
probe
- Do you have any lights (describe type (red,blue, basking etc) and cycle duration)
blue during the day and i turn on the mat at night
C) Cage mates
first week with my leo then housed alone
- How many (males, females)
with a adult female
- Describe health, or previous problems of cage mates
healthy always walking eating basking not problems as of yet

Describe Diet:
A) Typical diet
- What are you feeding
small crickets and small meal worms
- How often are you feeding your gecko and how much per feeding?
i leave the meal worms in a bowl he eats his fill and goes to sleep 5 small crickets every two days
- How are you feeding (hand fed, tongs/tweezers, left in dish, ect) i leave him eat on his own i tried to hand feed wont take it
B) Supplements
- What calcium suppliment are you using (please include brand)
- What multi vitimin are you using (please include brand)
flukers liquid vit spray formula
-How are you implimenting your suppliment program (how often do you dust with each suppliment, do you leave calcium in the tank 24/7 etc.)
- What are you gutloading your feeder insects with
with fluckers high calcium diet

Take pictures of the young gecko, it'll really help. Also different sized geckos, especially a full grown adult vs small young, should never be housed together. Adult geckos actually can think that the small ones are food. Also adult geckos are more prone to be territorial. It wouldn't surprise me if the adult attacked the young.

It could very well be MBD (metabolic bone disease) since the lil one came from a pet shop. Pet stores usually don't know how to take care of their leopard geckos. They tend to treat leopard geckos as if they are just "another lizard". Also if the mother of the young gecko wasn't well fed or well supplemented, the young gecko could've had this condition at birth. Pictures will really help.

Reading over your questionnaire quickly, I see that you turn off UTH during the day. You need to leave the undertank heating pad on 24/7. Also they are not like iguana & bearded dragons, they do not bask during the day. So there's no need for the light during the day.

The UTH needs to cover 1/3 of the tank, and on that hot side, it needs to reach 90-95 degrees at all time. They must have a temperature gradient, so you don't want the whole tank floor to be 90-95 degrees. Just a 1/3 of it where the UTH is. If your ambient temperature often drops below 70 degrees, you should supplement your heating needs with a ceramic heat emitter. These ceramic heat lamps only emit heat, not light. They are ideal for leopard geckos if UTH isn't heating up the floor enough. To test the floor temperature properly, you need to use either a temperature gun, or a digital thermometer with a probe.

For hides, your leopard geckos require 3 hides. A warm hide placed on the warm side, a cool hide placed on the cool side of the tank, and a moist hide placed somewhere in between. Moist hide is necessary to help them shed properly, you can use something simple like a plastic gladware container, cut a hole on the side, and stuff wet paper towels inside it. Leopard geckos do not require misting, so avoid doing that unless you do not have a moist hide and you see your gecko is shedding. Prolonged exposure to high humidity will cause respiratory infection.

To properly supplement your feeders, you will want to look for a good multi vitamin supplement. Repashy Calcium Plus, Zoo Med Reptivite, and Rep Cal's Herptivite are 3 solid products that you should have in your supplement rotation. Some forms of MBD is reversible so if MBD is indeed the problem with the young gecko, supplementing it right could make it better.

Hope that helps, good luck.