White's Tree Frogs
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White's Tree Frogs
by gothicgurrrl Tue Jun 07, 2011 9:14 am
Hello Everyone 
I was wondering if any of you know much about white's tree frogs, or have any experience keeping them?
I'm really interested in learning lots about them.. before I get one in the future :P They are gorgeous, and I find them really fascinating.
I can't get one now, because it would be silly when I'd be away at university in 2012.. but I'm going to buy one as soon as I leave. I want one of the blue-ish coloured ones.
Soo, any information on them would be great!
or if you can recommend any good websites that I could read through? books, too?
I was wondering if any of you know much about white's tree frogs, or have any experience keeping them?
I'm really interested in learning lots about them.. before I get one in the future :P They are gorgeous, and I find them really fascinating.
I can't get one now, because it would be silly when I'd be away at university in 2012.. but I'm going to buy one as soon as I leave. I want one of the blue-ish coloured ones.
Soo, any information on them would be great!
or if you can recommend any good websites that I could read through? books, too?
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Re: White's Tree Frogs
by Kermit Thu Jun 30, 2011 8:12 am
Sarah whites tree frogs are great amphibians... they require minimal care really as far as herps go... and are long lived lil buddies... I did some extensive research when I was looking to replace my bufo that died. What exactly are you looking to know?
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Re: White's Tree Frogs
by gothicgurrrl Thu Jun 30, 2011 10:35 am
I just want to know how they are cared for.. things you would write in a caresheet.. I've read websites.. but of course, websites can be wrong as I found out when I first got banana
- are they easy to care for?
- heating, lighting requirements
- I know that you keep them on rainforest soil like compost substrate, with some terrarium moss and spray twice daily.
- how much humidity do they require.. and how often do you need to spray them? can it easily been done by hand?
- do they tolerate handling? or even enjoy it? is it easy to handle them?
- how much and what do you feed them?
that's all I just want one in the future.. and i think it's better for me to learn now.. and know deffo how to care for one well before I consider getting one and buying the set-up
and thanks for the weblink Kodi
- are they easy to care for?
- heating, lighting requirements
- I know that you keep them on rainforest soil like compost substrate, with some terrarium moss and spray twice daily.
- how much humidity do they require.. and how often do you need to spray them? can it easily been done by hand?
- do they tolerate handling? or even enjoy it? is it easy to handle them?
- how much and what do you feed them?
that's all
I just want one in the future.. and i think it's better for me to learn now.. and know deffo how to care for one well before I consider getting one and buying the set-up and thanks for the weblink Kodi
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Re: White's Tree Frogs
by Karagain Mon Jul 04, 2011 5:22 am
I have a bit of experience with these froggies..
White tree frogs spend most of their time in trees, so the enclosure needs to have a lot of climbing room. A minimum 25 gallon glass aquarium is required and the tall arboreal type is better. A tight fitting lid is important as these frogs have foot pads that allow to scale the sides of any aquarium.
More than one can be housed together as long as they are similar size or the bigger one might eat the smaller one.
Substrate is very important in the enclosure, large pieces of bark, large sized gravel or soil can be used as substrate. And covering it in sphagnum moss will help the enclosure maintain moisture and humidity. Small sized gravel or bark is not recommended as the frog might accidentally ingest it. A cheap option is using paper towels or newspaper but this does not help in maintaining the humidity.
You need to provide lots of sturdy branches, large pieces of cork bark and plenty of foliage to enrich them with climbing opportunities. Live plants can be used but they need to be sturdy and not of been sprayed with fertilizers or pesticides.
They need a hide, you can create on by having a thick covering of plants or even have a large piece of bark in the a corner of the enclosure.
Because the white tree frog is nocturnal, no special lighting is required. But a basking light or heater should be used outside of the cage to provide a gradient of 80°-86°F during the day and drop to 72°-78°F during the night. A thermometer is recommended to observe and maintain the correct temperatures.
Lighting should be subdued and a regular light-dark cycle should be used, i.e. 12 hours light and 12 hours dark. Humidity should be maintained at about 50-60%, misting is required daily with dechlorinated or bottled water. A dish of water needs to be provided, for the frog to comfortably sit in the dish for rehydrating and soaking. Make sure the water is not too deep as they are not deep swimmers and they might drown if the water is too deep.
The frog’s cage should be spot cleaned everyday by wiping off any large waste matters from the plants, branches and substrate. The water dish needs to be changed daily or at least every other day. If you use paper as substrate, this can be cleaned out and replaced daily. If bark or moss is used then it can be taken out and washed as needed, the more often the better. If soil is used as substrate it should be cleaned out and replaced as needed.
Plain hot water is the recommended when cleaning the enclosure. As soaps and disinfectants can leave residues and this can be absorbed into the frog’s skin and cause health problems.
(Phew! I am glad I still had my assignment that I had done on the care of this specie)
Depends on the frog really, some will tolerate handling but you shouldn't handle them too much as they have very fragile skin and your
hands could have anything on them!!
White tree frogs spend most of their time in trees, so the enclosure needs to have a lot of climbing room. A minimum 25 gallon glass aquarium is required and the tall arboreal type is better. A tight fitting lid is important as these frogs have foot pads that allow to scale the sides of any aquarium.
More than one can be housed together as long as they are similar size or the bigger one might eat the smaller one.
Substrate is very important in the enclosure, large pieces of bark, large sized gravel or soil can be used as substrate. And covering it in sphagnum moss will help the enclosure maintain moisture and humidity. Small sized gravel or bark is not recommended as the frog might accidentally ingest it. A cheap option is using paper towels or newspaper but this does not help in maintaining the humidity.
You need to provide lots of sturdy branches, large pieces of cork bark and plenty of foliage to enrich them with climbing opportunities. Live plants can be used but they need to be sturdy and not of been sprayed with fertilizers or pesticides.
They need a hide, you can create on by having a thick covering of plants or even have a large piece of bark in the a corner of the enclosure.
Because the white tree frog is nocturnal, no special lighting is required. But a basking light or heater should be used outside of the cage to provide a gradient of 80°-86°F during the day and drop to 72°-78°F during the night. A thermometer is recommended to observe and maintain the correct temperatures.
Lighting should be subdued and a regular light-dark cycle should be used, i.e. 12 hours light and 12 hours dark. Humidity should be maintained at about 50-60%, misting is required daily with dechlorinated or bottled water. A dish of water needs to be provided, for the frog to comfortably sit in the dish for rehydrating and soaking. Make sure the water is not too deep as they are not deep swimmers and they might drown if the water is too deep.
The frog’s cage should be spot cleaned everyday by wiping off any large waste matters from the plants, branches and substrate. The water dish needs to be changed daily or at least every other day. If you use paper as substrate, this can be cleaned out and replaced daily. If bark or moss is used then it can be taken out and washed as needed, the more often the better. If soil is used as substrate it should be cleaned out and replaced as needed.
Plain hot water is the recommended when cleaning the enclosure. As soaps and disinfectants can leave residues and this can be absorbed into the frog’s skin and cause health problems.
(Phew! I am glad I still had my assignment that I had done on the care of this specie)
Depends on the frog really, some will tolerate handling but you shouldn't handle them too much as they have very fragile skin and your
hands could have anything on them!!
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Re: White's Tree Frogs
by gothicgurrrl Mon Jul 04, 2011 6:05 am
thankyou very much becca You answered almost all my questions
Just wondering about the heat source... can you use a heat mat? would it need to be attached to the bottom of the tank or on the side? i mean outside the tank of course.
What do they eat? How often do you feed them?
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Re: White's Tree Frogs
by Karagain Mon Jul 04, 2011 6:22 am
I think at the shop, the mats are under the exoterra tank and we feed them 5-8 locusts every day
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Re: White's Tree Frogs
by Sandy_Bear Thu Oct 27, 2011 3:30 am
I know that this is a bit late to be replying to this post, but I thought I'd give you some pointers, as I have 5 WTF (Whites Tree Frogs).
Terrarim Size: Tree Frogs require 10 gallons per frog, and you must start with at least a 20 gallon tank for them. This rule is applied to all species of tree frogs. Also, height is more important then width, so if you convert a tank into a vertical enclosure, they will really enjoy this. For example:
10 gallons (12Lx12Wx18H Exoterra) = 0 frogs
20 gallons (18Lx18Wx18H Exoterra) = 1-2 frogs
30 gallons (18Lx18Wx24H Exoterra) = 3 frogs
40 gallons (24Lx18Wx24H Exoterra) = 4 frogs.
Substrate: There are only a few types of substrates that are appropriate for frogs. You may use Coco Fiber, Peat Moss (make sure there are no chemicals), Paper Towels (brown is prefered), or you can leave the tank bare bottom. You can also buy or make your own leaf litter if you want to pretty up the substrate. Oak, Magnolia and Sea Grape are the best as they last the longest, you can usually buy these from any company that sells/supplies dart frogs and dart frog accessories. If you want to make your own you can do that too, just bake the dried leaves at 250F for 20 minutes. Other leaves will work good too (as long as they are not poisonous), they just degrade faster.
The cocofiber can be bought at the pet shop, it usually comes in dried bricks that have to be soaked. But you can also pick this up at Home Depot, or any garden center. It is usually much cheaper from a garden center or the gardening department.
The Peatmoss is ground up Sphanum I belive, so it looks like dirt. Make sure that it has no added chemicals to it. You can pick this up from walmart, home depot, or any garden center
Substrates to avoid: There are lots of substrates that you want to avoid, mostly because they can cause impaction in frogs, they are very clumsy eaters, or they are too abrasive for their delicate skin.
Sphagnum Moss, aquarium pebbles, small rocks, bark, perlite, vermiculite, and mulch are substrates to avoid because they can cause impaction, and frogs can die from impaction.
Reptile Carpet and sand are not appropriate substrates for frogs because they are too abrasive for their delicate skin.
Water Conditioner/Dechlorinator: For frogs there are only 2 brands of dechlorinator that you want to use, the first is Prime by Seachem, and the second is AmQuel by Kordon (not AmQuel Plus!). I use Prime at home. There are lots of different brands of dechlorinator available out there, and lots of them have gimmicky additives that are not appropriate for frogs.
Water Dish: A large water dish should be provided. Water must be changed daily and when soiled. Frogs like to use their water dish to go to the bathroom in, they also use this as their drinking area. Frogs don't actually drink water though, they absorb it thought their skin. They have a "drink patch" that is located on their bottom, kind of the area around their bum, inner thighs, and tummy. You will notice that the skin is a bit more bumpier there then the rest of the tummy. This is the most absorbent spot on the frog.
Misting/spraying: I rarely mist my tree frogs, I maybe mist their tank twice a month. I provide them with a large water dish, and that alone provides lots of humidity for their tank. Tree Frogs are really susceptible to Bacterial Infections caused by humidity that is too high, so you need to be careful how you mist your tank. Also, when you do mist the tank, mist the tank at night, and never ever mist the frog. When tree frogs sleep they have a special coating on their skin that protects them, when you spray them, that coating comes off and will stress them out. Frogs can die from stress.
Morphs: There are two different types of "morphs" for Whites Tree Frogs, one is the common (green) morph, the other is the blue morph. Both are naturally occurring, I do believe that the Blue whites come from a part of Australia, and the common morph comes from both Australia and Indonesia. These morphs can both be kept together in the same terrarium, however is is very discouraged to cross-breed the two different morphs, the frogging community likes to keep the lines pure.
Color Changing: It is normal for you to see your Whites turn colours, usually, they will be bright green during the day, and will turn brown at night. This helps with their camouflage. Sometimes you will see a Whites that will stay brown all the time. This can indicate a lot of different things, such as the temperatures are too cold, a lot of their tank decor is brown and they are blending in, or they could just be a grumpy frog and stay that color all the time.
If you see bright green polka-dots, or streaky blotchy patches in bright green on your frog, this is a bad thing. It is commonly referred to as the "Green Spots of Doom". Basically it's a bacterial infection. You will need to bring the frog to the vet and get him a prescription to clear that up.
Tank mates: only house Whites Tree frogs with other Whites tree frogs, and they must be very close to the same size. Whites are amazing eaters and will try to eat anything they can fit in their mouth. I have had frogs get eaten by other frogs that I didn't think would "fit", so you need to be careful when assembling groups together.
Handling: Never handle your frog unless absolutely necessary. Checking for health reasons and documentation purposes is ok, but just to take him out to "play with him" is not cool. Handling is very stressful on frogs and should be kept to a minimum. Frogs are ornamental pets, just like fish.
When handling you need to make sure that your hands/skin is really clean. No perfumes/sents, no soaps, sweat, grease, food, or chemicals can be on your skin. Make sure they are well washed and well rinsed before handling. Their skin is very absorbent, so if there is something on your skin, you can make them sick. Many keepers prefer to wear disposable gloves, but there is lots of debate as to which kinds of gloves are best: latex, nitrile, vinyl, etc...
Food: All prey items have to be live, as frogs don't recognize non-moving prey as food. Feed a variety of insects. Crickets are a BIG favorite amongst tree frogs. I have yet to see one of my tree frogs turn their noses up to a cricket. You can also feed Dubia Roaches, wax worms, butter worms, Hornworms, Silk worms, etc...
Rodents can also be fed to frogs, but should only be offered twice a year maximum. Frogs can develop all kinds of unpleasant dietary problems from eating too many high fatty foods like mice.
Whites are big eaters, so be careful yours doesn't become obese. Once acclimated they are very eager to accept prey items, mine will even take buggies right from my hand.
Quarantine: This is a very important practice when keeping frogs. It is especially important when you are adding new frogs to an existing colony. Proper quarantine is 3 months to a year, depending on where you got your frogs from. Shorter quarantine would be if you got your frogs frog a very reputable breeder at say an Expo, or his shop. Longer quarantine is if your frogs are wild caught or bought from a pet shop.
Some issues with frogs have longer incubation times and don't present for months. It is better to make a new frog stay in quarantine then get your whole collection sick.
Chytrid Fungus Treatment: This is also very important to do. It is not hard, but will take up a bit of your time. IMO, this is the equivalent of getting your dog/cat vaccinated for rabies. If you don't want to do this, then you should bring the frog into the vet to get him swabbed to make sure he is CF free. I had a scare with my frogs last winter, and I've been going though my collection making sure that they are all treated for this. I'm not sure if it was CF, but to be on the safe side, I decided to treat everything anyways. It is a highly contagious fungus that just affects amphibians.
How to treat Chytrid Fungus:
http://talkto.thefrog.org/index.php?action=vthread&forum=4&topic=16811
Forums: there are lots of forums for frog keepers and I recommend joining one. I belong to two, The Frog and Frog Freaks both are good active family friendly sites.
The Frog:
http://www.thefrog.org/
Frog Freaks:
http://www.frogfreaks.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=acd4f57dc93135d299622e650ea2d456&action=forum
Books: There is only 1 book that I recommend getting: Amphibian Medicine and Captive Husbandry
This is Norbert, my first Whites Tree Frog. I got her for Christmas a couple of years ago, and she had the worst parasite infection ever. I paid about $300 worth of vet visits, fecal testing, and medications to get rid of what she had. She had 2 different kinds of parasites. I have a new vet now, as I wasn't happy with the first vet I went to. They are much better with me and my animals.
My Whites are called: Norbert (female), Minerva (Female), Brooklynn (Female), Brodie (Male) and Carlbert (Male)
Terrarim Size: Tree Frogs require 10 gallons per frog, and you must start with at least a 20 gallon tank for them. This rule is applied to all species of tree frogs. Also, height is more important then width, so if you convert a tank into a vertical enclosure, they will really enjoy this. For example:
10 gallons (12Lx12Wx18H Exoterra) = 0 frogs
20 gallons (18Lx18Wx18H Exoterra) = 1-2 frogs
30 gallons (18Lx18Wx24H Exoterra) = 3 frogs
40 gallons (24Lx18Wx24H Exoterra) = 4 frogs.
Substrate: There are only a few types of substrates that are appropriate for frogs. You may use Coco Fiber, Peat Moss (make sure there are no chemicals), Paper Towels (brown is prefered), or you can leave the tank bare bottom. You can also buy or make your own leaf litter if you want to pretty up the substrate. Oak, Magnolia and Sea Grape are the best as they last the longest, you can usually buy these from any company that sells/supplies dart frogs and dart frog accessories. If you want to make your own you can do that too, just bake the dried leaves at 250F for 20 minutes. Other leaves will work good too (as long as they are not poisonous), they just degrade faster.
The cocofiber can be bought at the pet shop, it usually comes in dried bricks that have to be soaked. But you can also pick this up at Home Depot, or any garden center. It is usually much cheaper from a garden center or the gardening department.
The Peatmoss is ground up Sphanum I belive, so it looks like dirt. Make sure that it has no added chemicals to it. You can pick this up from walmart, home depot, or any garden center
Substrates to avoid: There are lots of substrates that you want to avoid, mostly because they can cause impaction in frogs, they are very clumsy eaters, or they are too abrasive for their delicate skin.
Sphagnum Moss, aquarium pebbles, small rocks, bark, perlite, vermiculite, and mulch are substrates to avoid because they can cause impaction, and frogs can die from impaction.
Reptile Carpet and sand are not appropriate substrates for frogs because they are too abrasive for their delicate skin.
Water Conditioner/Dechlorinator: For frogs there are only 2 brands of dechlorinator that you want to use, the first is Prime by Seachem, and the second is AmQuel by Kordon (not AmQuel Plus!). I use Prime at home. There are lots of different brands of dechlorinator available out there, and lots of them have gimmicky additives that are not appropriate for frogs.
Water Dish: A large water dish should be provided. Water must be changed daily and when soiled. Frogs like to use their water dish to go to the bathroom in, they also use this as their drinking area. Frogs don't actually drink water though, they absorb it thought their skin. They have a "drink patch" that is located on their bottom, kind of the area around their bum, inner thighs, and tummy. You will notice that the skin is a bit more bumpier there then the rest of the tummy. This is the most absorbent spot on the frog.
Misting/spraying: I rarely mist my tree frogs, I maybe mist their tank twice a month. I provide them with a large water dish, and that alone provides lots of humidity for their tank. Tree Frogs are really susceptible to Bacterial Infections caused by humidity that is too high, so you need to be careful how you mist your tank. Also, when you do mist the tank, mist the tank at night, and never ever mist the frog. When tree frogs sleep they have a special coating on their skin that protects them, when you spray them, that coating comes off and will stress them out. Frogs can die from stress.
Morphs: There are two different types of "morphs" for Whites Tree Frogs, one is the common (green) morph, the other is the blue morph. Both are naturally occurring, I do believe that the Blue whites come from a part of Australia, and the common morph comes from both Australia and Indonesia. These morphs can both be kept together in the same terrarium, however is is very discouraged to cross-breed the two different morphs, the frogging community likes to keep the lines pure.
Color Changing: It is normal for you to see your Whites turn colours, usually, they will be bright green during the day, and will turn brown at night. This helps with their camouflage. Sometimes you will see a Whites that will stay brown all the time. This can indicate a lot of different things, such as the temperatures are too cold, a lot of their tank decor is brown and they are blending in, or they could just be a grumpy frog and stay that color all the time.
If you see bright green polka-dots, or streaky blotchy patches in bright green on your frog, this is a bad thing. It is commonly referred to as the "Green Spots of Doom". Basically it's a bacterial infection. You will need to bring the frog to the vet and get him a prescription to clear that up.
Tank mates: only house Whites Tree frogs with other Whites tree frogs, and they must be very close to the same size. Whites are amazing eaters and will try to eat anything they can fit in their mouth. I have had frogs get eaten by other frogs that I didn't think would "fit", so you need to be careful when assembling groups together.
Handling: Never handle your frog unless absolutely necessary. Checking for health reasons and documentation purposes is ok, but just to take him out to "play with him" is not cool. Handling is very stressful on frogs and should be kept to a minimum. Frogs are ornamental pets, just like fish.
When handling you need to make sure that your hands/skin is really clean. No perfumes/sents, no soaps, sweat, grease, food, or chemicals can be on your skin. Make sure they are well washed and well rinsed before handling. Their skin is very absorbent, so if there is something on your skin, you can make them sick. Many keepers prefer to wear disposable gloves, but there is lots of debate as to which kinds of gloves are best: latex, nitrile, vinyl, etc...
Food: All prey items have to be live, as frogs don't recognize non-moving prey as food. Feed a variety of insects. Crickets are a BIG favorite amongst tree frogs. I have yet to see one of my tree frogs turn their noses up to a cricket. You can also feed Dubia Roaches, wax worms, butter worms, Hornworms, Silk worms, etc...
Rodents can also be fed to frogs, but should only be offered twice a year maximum. Frogs can develop all kinds of unpleasant dietary problems from eating too many high fatty foods like mice.
Whites are big eaters, so be careful yours doesn't become obese. Once acclimated they are very eager to accept prey items, mine will even take buggies right from my hand.
Quarantine: This is a very important practice when keeping frogs. It is especially important when you are adding new frogs to an existing colony. Proper quarantine is 3 months to a year, depending on where you got your frogs from. Shorter quarantine would be if you got your frogs frog a very reputable breeder at say an Expo, or his shop. Longer quarantine is if your frogs are wild caught or bought from a pet shop.
Some issues with frogs have longer incubation times and don't present for months. It is better to make a new frog stay in quarantine then get your whole collection sick.
Chytrid Fungus Treatment: This is also very important to do. It is not hard, but will take up a bit of your time. IMO, this is the equivalent of getting your dog/cat vaccinated for rabies. If you don't want to do this, then you should bring the frog into the vet to get him swabbed to make sure he is CF free. I had a scare with my frogs last winter, and I've been going though my collection making sure that they are all treated for this. I'm not sure if it was CF, but to be on the safe side, I decided to treat everything anyways. It is a highly contagious fungus that just affects amphibians.
How to treat Chytrid Fungus:
http://talkto.thefrog.org/index.php?action=vthread&forum=4&topic=16811
Forums: there are lots of forums for frog keepers and I recommend joining one. I belong to two, The Frog and Frog Freaks both are good active family friendly sites.
The Frog:
http://www.thefrog.org/
Frog Freaks:
http://www.frogfreaks.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=acd4f57dc93135d299622e650ea2d456&action=forum
Books: There is only 1 book that I recommend getting: Amphibian Medicine and Captive Husbandry
- ISBN-10: 0894649175
- ISBN-13: 978-0894649172
This is Norbert, my first Whites Tree Frog. I got her for Christmas a couple of years ago, and she had the worst parasite infection ever. I paid about $300 worth of vet visits, fecal testing, and medications to get rid of what she had. She had 2 different kinds of parasites. I have a new vet now, as I wasn't happy with the first vet I went to. They are much better with me and my animals.
My Whites are called: Norbert (female), Minerva (Female), Brooklynn (Female), Brodie (Male) and Carlbert (Male)
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Re: White's Tree Frogs
by gothicgurrrl Thu Oct 27, 2011 4:58 am
omg wow thanks for much for your caresheet/info It was awesome!
I will join those forums as soon as I can I keep seeing white's tree frogs in my local pet store and I'm falling more and more in love with them.. I just hope my mom considers letting me buy one... she's hesitant because while I'm at university next year, she will have to care for them.
Your frog is adorable.. so beautiful and an amazing colour! i've only ever seen the brown ones and the blue ones How long do they take to grow that big? all the ones i've seen are tiny little frogs
wow thanks for much for your caresheet/info It was awesome!I will join those forums as soon as I can
I keep seeing white's tree frogs in my local pet store and I'm falling more and more in love with them.. I just hope my mom considers letting me buy one... she's hesitant because while I'm at university next year, she will have to care for them.Your frog is adorable.. so beautiful and an amazing colour! i've only ever seen the brown ones and the blue ones
How long do they take to grow that big? all the ones i've seen are tiny little frogs
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Re: White's Tree Frogs
by gothicgurrrl Thu Oct 27, 2011 5:00 am
oh and please upload loads more pics of your froggies ^ ^
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Re: White's Tree Frogs
by Sandy_Bear Thu Oct 27, 2011 7:42 am
This is the tank that my 4 live in. I've recently re-done the tank when I treated them for CF, there are no more live plants in there. I have all fake plants in there. I'll have to take some new photos soon of the tank, it looks much different. The tank is a 40 gallon Breeder (Hagen) that I've converted into a vertical terrarium. I broke one of the short sides and replaced it with screen and mesh. The tank sits on the of the short ends, and I had glass cut at the local glass cutters and made doors for it. So it works like the Exoterra units, it's just a better size for my tree frogs (36" H x 18" L x 15 or 16" D).
The large branch you see in the tank is from a Manitoba Maple Tree. My dad was pruning the tree in the fall, and he lets me take or select some of the branches off the tree if I need one for a project.
This is little Carlbert when we first got him. He was another Christmas present. We rescued him from a crappy little pet shop that is in the city my In-Laws live in. He was kept in a 5 gallon tank with Sphagnum Moss and Sand as substrates. He was also listed as a White Lipped Tree Frog, although he clearly is not. I tried to explain that to both the staff and the owner, but obviously I didn't know what I was talking about. He was only $30, which wasn't too bad as they are usually worth about $40-60 at the pet shops in my city.
This was Brooklynn and Brodie's quarantine/ grow-up tank. It was just the little 10 gallon Exoterra, but they were pretty tiny when I bought them. Once they were big enough, they up graded to the big Whites tank with Norbert. That is Brodie when he was a baby. He still usually that color too.
This is Minerva she is my largest Whites, she was bought from the same pet shop at Norbert. The first 6 months I had her, she hardly ate anything. I think she had stress pretty bad. She would eat 1 cricket maybe every 2 weeks. After she calmed down, she is now one of the biggest little piggy-frogs I have. However she has some sort of infection that doesn't seem to want to go away. Her back legs get swollen with fluid, and she has open ulcers/lesions on them. She has been to the vet, and we are trying treatments with her, and it seems to be lessened. This is something that I've come across in many posts by Whites owners. What ever the problem is, I think it's one of those things that just has to work it self out over a very long period of time. I'm doubtful that she'll ever be in the tank with the rest of the group.
This is a recent picture of what her back end looks like. This actually looks "pretty good" compared to what it did look like. I have her on a combination of Baytril in her water dish and Baytril Otic, which has baytril and SSD mixed together, it's like a runny cream that I put drops on her back legs. She doesn't approve the the Bayrtil Otic, and I usually get peed on.
She acts normal other wise, likes to eat, sleep and eat some more.
I know that the lesions hurt her when I touch them, I applied some polysporin on the one time with a Q-tip and she started squawking at me. Females rarely vocalize unless in pain or threatened.
Oh, I forgot to mention above about heating. If your place is really cold, then get them a CHE (Ceramic Heat Emitter), something low, like 40-60 watts depending on how big your tank is. I've never used one on any of my tanks. I don't use UTH (Under tank heaters) on any of my tanks. They are a waste of money, at least when it comes to frogs.
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Re: White's Tree Frogs
by gothicgurrrl Thu Oct 27, 2011 8:07 am
'one of the biggest little piggy-frogs' haha that made me giggle!
wow.. your froggies are gorgeous!! they look so happy!
ooh dear.. poor Minerva
I hope the sores go away soon. Get well soon!
What temperatures do they need? the pet store near me recommended a heat mat.. but I will get a heat emitter if I persuade my momto let me get a frog.
that made me giggle!wow.. your froggies are gorgeous!!
they look so happy! ooh dear.. poor Minerva
I hope the sores go away soon. Get well soon!What temperatures do they need? the pet store near me recommended a heat mat.. but I will get a heat emitter if I persuade my momto let me get a frog.
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Re: White's Tree Frogs
by Sandy_Bear Thu Oct 27, 2011 9:33 am
Well the thing about pet shops is that they are always trying to sell you stuff you don't need.
I've kept mine at temperatures between 19-30C and that's the differences between night/day and summer and winter. Keep them at average room temperature is fine, so 22-24C would be best.
The thing with heat mats, is that they have very delicate skin, and making an area of the glass hot can burn them. If the mat is going to be put at the bottom of the tank, they won't benefit from any heat from it, and if you put it on the side it's a eye soar, and they sometimes sleep on the glass of the tank, and they climb on it so they can get burnt. I don't use them myself as I've never been impressed with them. I bought 2 ages ago, and threw them both out.
If you want to light the tank, you can just use a regular 40 watt house bulb instead of the CHE, just be sure to turn it off at night for them.
I've kept mine at temperatures between 19-30C and that's the differences between night/day and summer and winter. Keep them at average room temperature is fine, so 22-24C would be best.
The thing with heat mats, is that they have very delicate skin, and making an area of the glass hot can burn them. If the mat is going to be put at the bottom of the tank, they won't benefit from any heat from it, and if you put it on the side it's a eye soar, and they sometimes sleep on the glass of the tank, and they climb on it so they can get burnt. I don't use them myself as I've never been impressed with them. I bought 2 ages ago, and threw them both out.
If you want to light the tank, you can just use a regular 40 watt house bulb instead of the CHE, just be sure to turn it off at night for them.
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Re: White's Tree Frogs
by kathstew Thu Oct 27, 2011 9:48 am
Your frogs are soooo cute! OMG! I love Brodie. So cute!
I have a green tree frog and his name is Murray lol. :P I love him. Murray is very jumpy though, and can't be handled as much as White tree frogs XD
I love frogs though.
Poor Minerva. I hope it clears up as soon as something like that can.
I have a green tree frog and his name is Murray lol. :P I love him. Murray is very jumpy though, and can't be handled as much as White tree frogs XD
I love frogs though.
Poor Minerva. I hope it clears up as soon as something like that can.
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Re: White's Tree Frogs
by mrs looney Thu Oct 27, 2011 8:52 pm
ive been looking into getting a red eyed tree frog ... love frogs x
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Re: White's Tree Frogs
by Sandy_Bear Fri Oct 28, 2011 2:34 am
This is one of my female RETF (Red Eyed Tree Frogs). I have 4, 2 are in a 40 gallon breeder vertical enclosure, the other 2 are in quarantine undergoing CF treatment.
They are not a beginner frog, and are not very forgiving of mistakes. If you are interested in getting some, let me know, I can help you with learning their care. A lot of what you will find on the Internet and books about them is not very good information.
I got my care information from someone that breeds these guys on one of my frog forums.
Also, buy these guys from a breeder if you can. CB frogs can live up to 12 years. Wild Caught frogs, that you will normally get from a pet shop will only live 1-5 years. The WC guys are usually in really poor condition too.
They are not a beginner frog, and are not very forgiving of mistakes. If you are interested in getting some, let me know, I can help you with learning their care. A lot of what you will find on the Internet and books about them is not very good information.
I got my care information from someone that breeds these guys on one of my frog forums.
Also, buy these guys from a breeder if you can. CB frogs can live up to 12 years. Wild Caught frogs, that you will normally get from a pet shop will only live 1-5 years. The WC guys are usually in really poor condition too.
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Re: White's Tree Frogs
by gothicgurrrl Fri Oct 28, 2011 3:26 am
awww sooo pretty I never knew they have those markings on their side/belly I think red eyed tree frogs are lovely.. but I'm a lover of white's tree frogs, cuban tree frogs and those pacman frogs
I never knew they have those markings on their side/belly I think red eyed tree frogs are lovely.. but I'm a lover of white's tree frogs, cuban tree frogs and those pacman frogs
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